Title : Pilchards
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Pilchards
A Huer hut revitalized in Newquay, Cornwall |
Typical view from a Huer hut (in this photo the tide is out) |
It had taken a bit but after a few days to adjust out of the jet lag I had to admit that I was rather enjoying our nightly gab sessions at the place we were staying. We were already more or less friends with the inn owners (having stayed there before) but now we were being accepted as well as welcomed by their regular coterie of friends. They were teaching me the ways of the town and of the Cornish culture. Want a job done? It'll be gotten to drekly (their take of "directly" which basically meant whenever they got around to it...when one of them noticed my shocked expression at how long he had waited to get his retina fixed so that he could see better he shrugged, smiled, and pointing to his other eye, from which he couldn't see at all, said "and when I get this one done I'll see even better," then winked and chortled off a "they'll get to it drekly"...he's been waiting two years). And while the group of them tired of hearing about Brexit everyday and on what seemed every talk show on the tellie (the showdown for Britain's departure from the European Union is supposed to take place in March of 2019), my wife and I found ourselves in bliss at the limited time that the media gave to U.S. politics (generally 30 seconds or less). Which is not to say that they had no shortage of Trump jokes, for the word trump there is the traditional slang term for farting...or having excess gas. Here's one of their jokes, political correctness aside: A bigot, a racist and a sexist walk into a bar and the bartender asks, "What can I get you Mr. Trump?" Or this one of both Obama and Trump in a movie theatre watching a western when Obama bets Trump $1000 that once the horse rider in the movie rounds the corner he was going to take a tumble; Trump accepts the bet, the rider falls, and Trump casts a sour face but Obama fesses up and tells Trump that he really can't take he money because he'd seen the movie before and knew that the rider was going to fall off, to which Trump replies, "Well I've seen the movie before too but I didn't think the git was stupid enough to fall off again!"
We had to laugh, if only because it made us realize how silly all of the ranting and raving we had left at home was being viewed as a farce abroad, something to be joked about even as fingers controlled buttons that could unleash nuclear weapons; here in the country of sorts the entire world of political upheaval simply came down to the basics of what could the everyday person do other than perhaps yell "hubba, hubba." From this coastline of a country that was also once a world power, the locals could almost watch politics from afar and perhaps see its ebbs and flows as certainly as the tides. And as they bickered about whether England would be better off leaving or staying in the European Union, we could gaze at their debate from afar as well. It felt good to get away from it all and just have a jolly old laugh about what really mattered, that of taking the time to just sit and chat, to unite rather than divide.
The first pub/hostelery in the town of Newquay |
We were perhaps fortunate to be in a nether world, getting a glimpse of both the old ways and the new. In some ways not much had changed but in others (such as home prices) much had. As with many vacations we were having the time to listen to others and perhaps listen to ourselves, to watch the time drift away and yet recognize that we were also in that riptide of life. Things were changing onshore but we had quit struggling to get back in, content to pop out and join the 18-year olds at their coming out party held at our stay (so young!)...full of life and so much to experience; one could almost feel their exuberance but then we were scheduled at a private party the next night, a friend of ours playing in the band (us old folks?). It was the town of Newquay, home to one of the first night-time surfing the dark competitions (what??). Change was coming...but one must be patient for that's the next story.
*This from the brochures that dots every inn, even though the background of the word "Hubba, Hubba" is hotly debated; and while the phrase might be considered passe in today's world of slang, New Zealand brought it back from a safe sex campaign: No Rubba, No Hubba Hubba. Honest!
**Here's a bit of trivia from Men's Journal on the whiskEY vs. whisKY debate...only two places in the world still use the KEY spelling of the word, the U.S. and Ireland.
***If you want to enter a real discussion starter, perhaps even larger than Brexit, just mention the word Witherspoons in a local pub, the massive corporation buying out the majority of struggling pubs and efficiently running them by adding more craft ales, menu choices, and sponsoring events throughout the U.K....but in the process, losing the character and individuality of the pub itself. Those few pubs which are able to turn down such buy-out offers and still maintain themselves financially (and can thus choose which lagers or ales to carry vs. being told that only certain ones can be served, are called free holds and proudly announce such outside their walls). As an observer, we found many of the Witherspoon pubs more crowded and drawing in all ages, the prices and décor little changed but the noise jumping up several notches; the beer and wine choices were many and the menu items we had proved tasty and varied, from pizzas to quinoa salads. But walk into a free hold and the casual atmosphere is immediate, the pace down several notches, the staff patient and eager to chat and the history of the place seeping into you like a misty fog. One good result, most of the freeholds have upped their own menu choices, more limited in scale but generating that home-cooked feel; when I ordered the Cornish sardine salad (relabeling the pilchards as Cornish Sardines is the latest effort by the Cornwall area to revitalize the nearly dead industry blamed partly on overfishing by large fleets from other countries), I received an unexpected but rather nicely presented "salad."
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